Equipment
Skates:
Today, “free heel” skates – where the boot is only attached to the binding at the toe – are the most common, both in stores and on the ice. These bindings are the same type used for cross-country skis. Two types dominate: touring bindings and skate bindings. The type of binding determines the choice of boot.
In the past, it was common for the heel to also be fixed to the skate. These are now rare in shops but can easily be found second-hand. If buying used, it’s wise to get matching boots at the same time, unless you already have them.
There are also skates with “ratchet buckle” bindings that can be used with regular hiking boots. These are often a bit more cumbersome to put on and take off than other options and can feel less stable, depending on the boots you use.
Boots:
Your boots should be sturdy, especially for side-to-side support, have a good heel fit, and enough room for your toes. They should also be water-resistant to keep your feet dry. Boots for touring bindings are usually leather, warmer, and heavier than skating boots, which are lighter (mainly plastic) and hold your foot in a very stable grip. Skating boots have a hard sole, which can be more slippery to walk on than the softer sole of a touring boot.
Backpack:
The most important thing in your backpack is a complete change of clothes, packed in a waterproof bag. This includes everything from underwear to gloves and a hat (the only thing you won’t have a spare of is boots; waterproof over-socks can help keep them dry). Aside from keeping you dry if you fall through the ice, the spare clothes also act as a flotation device – together with the pack, they form your life vest. Pack everything in a strong, waterproof roll-top dry bag, not ordinary plastic bags that tear easily.
You should also have space for a jacket or other warm layer for breaks, a thermos, food, and enough water for the trip. If your backpack holds all of this, it’s probably the right size – usually around 30–40 liters. For larger packs, tighten the straps so the dry bag stays in place and doesn’t float to the top if you end up in the water (which can otherwise push your head forward).
Your backpack should have a hip belt and a crotch strap to stop it from riding up if you fall in, and to help keep you high in the water. There should also be an outer pocket or similar spot to store your throw line without fastening it shut, so you can reach it without taking the pack off. With the throw line’s extension strap, you should be able to deploy it while keeping the pack on.
Iceclaws with whistle:
Ice claws should hang high up under your chin so you can reach them without putting your hands underwater if you fall in. This also reduces the risk of injury if you fall on the ice. The whistle is for attracting attention. If it’s attached to your ice picks, it’s always within reach
Ice pole:
An ice pole is primarily for checking the ice ahead of you – not for pushing to gain speed. With practice, a few strikes will let you assess the ice’s thickness and quality.
Poles come in different models and with different tips, but the type of tip is less important than learning how your own pole feels. A double pole – two poles clipped together while skating and separated when probing – is preferable. It also gives you support when stepping over cracks, helps avoid falls on rough ice, and assists in moving forward against the wind.
Throw line:
A throw line is an important part of safety equipment. Get one designed for skating – it will float, be long enough, and won’t stiffen in cold weather.
Keep it in a pouch on your backpack so it can be pulled out without removing the pack (for example, in an open outer pocket). Attach an extension strap to the handle and fix it to the pack so you can deploy it from either the ice or the water without removing the backpack. The extension strap should also have a carabiner for easier rescues.
Ready-made kits with extension straps, carabiners, and crotch straps are available. They’re usually attached to the pack’s hip belt, but other setups exist. Ask your skating club what they recommend.
Protective gear:
Helmets are now common among skaters, often lightweight and well-ventilated cycling helmets that don’t block the sound of the ice. Other helmet types are also used.
Knee pads are useful both for protection if you fall and for warmth and dryness when helping a companion with their skates or in similar situations.
Mobile phone:
A mobile phone in a waterproof case is very useful on the ice – not only for sending ice observations on the spot but also as a navigation aid and camera. More importantly, it’s essential for calling for help in an emergency. Cold drains batteries quickly, so bring a power bank and the right charging cable. Keep the phone in an easily accessible place – you must be able to reach it without taking off your backpack in case of an emergency.
Clothing:
No special clothing is needed for Nordic skating, but it’s physical activity, so layering is best. This allows you to adjust your outfit depending on effort level. Cotton retains moisture, so wool or synthetic fabrics are preferable as a base layer. A thicker jacket stored in your pack will help you stay warm during breaks. Always wear gloves or mittens to protect your hands in case of a fall.